Diving into the Outback
At last, the drought is over, i can hear the collective sigh of relief from here.... Gonna be a bit of a marathon session this, so your going to have to forgive my ramblings.I'll pick up the story in Cairns - my last week on the east coast *sob* Well quite a relief actually to start to make a break from backpacker central. In my constant quest for self improvement (yes, it IS possible) i decided to learn to dive as should have plenty of opportunity to do more in indochina. Also, you can't come all this way and not dive on the great barrier reef. The course consisted of 2 days class and pool training, then four dives on the reef itself practicing skills and swimming about.Diving is pretty easy really, once you get the hang of breathing underwater and equalizing the pressure. For the uninitiated this isn't an early 90's dance act but the process of holding your nose, whilst blowing it, trying not to burst blood vessels/pass out. Kitted out in the wetsuits, tanks BCD, snorkel and grenade-esque weights i felt ready to leap into a bond movie. Unfortunately my self belief wasn't sufficient to convince the instructors that, REALLY i should be allowed a spear gun. ahh well, just have to look the fishies. Swimming along weightless at 14 m with only slight paranoia about shark attacks and being stung my some deadly sea creatures of the deep is an increadible feeling. Gliding over the reef, next to the fishes i saw a couple of stings rays and turtles, although the visibility was not too good, due to rain on the surface. Anyways, having passed all the tests i'm now fully qualified to get myself into watery danger all over the world!For the next leg of my journey I was joined my a couple of crazy german guys (Johannes and Christien - sorry bout spelling guys) and their beautiful, yellow, 1980, 4.1 litre, straight 6, ford falcon beast. Having had the misfortune to meet me at Cape Trib, they became convinced that their trib to Alice and Darwin would be greatly improved my presence (ie i could contribute toward fuel). Hitting the road one Saturday evening, our backpacker mobile piled high with bags and camping gear we began the 5554.4 km odyssey to Darwin.My first night under canvas (since fraser) was spent at 700m near the top of Wallaman falls - the highest waterfall in Austrailia, in what is laughably referred to as a three 'man' tent. From the tent design however, which i think can be traced to the mid 13th century, it is concievable that 'man' was an appropriate term at conception. Viewing the falls the next morning (having arrived at 10pm) we were greated with an awesome sight. Water plunging 300m down a sheer cliff into a pool below. Unable to daudle as we were on a tight scedule, we were on out way again by 9amThe next couple of days were characterised by arrow straight roads, flanked by pylons and the railroad. The roadways are scattered with dead kangeroos and cattle - night driving in these parts it particularly hazardous, now i understand bull bars! (although perhaps not in putney) The road kill means that carrion birds thrive by the road side - mostly crows, but alway some huge eagles. On our way to Uluru (ayres rock) we took in the the Devils Marbles (a collection of moderately sized red rocks) and the Olgas (a collection of huge red rocks) before reaching our destination (one humungous red rock).It was very easy (and typical) of me to be blase (thats blah-zay) about Uluru on my first viewing, sunset, in the 'sunset viewing area'. Around us folks from the tour buses and the caravan brigade popping open a chardonnay to witness the sunset - keeping a distance from the smelly backpackers, can't blame them here showers were a distant memory by this point, having been replaced by bush camps and bushes. My impression was, yeah, its a big rock that i've seen pictures of like this 100 times. However, the next day, doing the walk around the base the rock almost became alive. The surface forms thousands of images and shapes, one moment the skin of a huge beast, the next like some creation of Gaudi in its shape and form. It was easy to see how the aborigines saw stories of ancestors and battles scarred into the surface of this monolith. Next stop, Kings Canyon, a mere 300 km from Uluru. This system of canyons is formed from a region that was origionally desert. The crests on the plateau section betray this past, being petrified sand dunes. Between the dunes a dramatic series of canyons have formed both large and small, sheltering beautiful creeks and a huge variety of plant life. One ravine is named the 'garden of eden' with its brook, lined with palms and culminating in a large circular plunge pool enclosed by vertical cliff faces.Leaving KC at about 5.30 we had to put in some miles before finding a camp spot. Driving along quite merrily, stero playing road trip classics the engine cut..... We rolled to a stop. A series of words indicating severe displeasure followed (bother didn't feature too strongly). Miles from anywhere, my first thought was, 'well we got a tent'. Having forgotten to feed the beast with sufficient oil garnish it requires for its petrol the engine had siezed. Lucky for us, after pouring in a good measure of the black stuff it started again - ah they don't make em like they used too! Pulling up for fuel an hour later and to check the oil situation at a road house in the middle of nowhere (bit of a theme round here) i went in looking for someone to turn the pump on. A roadhouse is a staunch bastion of aussieness - handle bar moustaches, terrible mullets, rugby league on the telly and jugs of beer. Whilst the owner show me a delightful set of piccys of tourists' cars after hitting the local cattle, his wife happily filled our car. Avoiding death and following a quick pit stop in Alice for new tires we reached the West MacDonald ranges, a RANGE of mountains to the WEST of Alice. Quite a beautiful area but wasn't as good as we had expected. According to the local literature, its 'somewhere where the residents of Alice Springs can go to get away from it all' It was certainly news to me that Alice is where 'it is all at' - obviously i don't know the rat race when i see it. Another day on the road and we reached Katherine gorge. We took a walk to 'butterfly gorge' (katherine gorge, consisting of a series of 14 gorges or something). This gorge was noted for its butterflys (gasp) and its deep water. The perfect venue for the European base jumping championships (results below). On the way back i trod on a rather large bright yellow snake. Inevitably this sent me running and screaming, frantically checking my legs for puncture wounds. 10 mins later was feeling rather pround that had survived brush with death. Wasn't pleased to find out (later) it was a harmless tree snake.The culmination of our trip was at the Kakadu, reputed to be the finest of Australia's national parks. The region in famed for the diversity of its habitats, dry stoney plateau, gum forest, monsoon forest and wetlands. Having planned to spend 4 days in the park we took the first day slowly. Driving up to Gunlom falls, along an unsealed track, viewing the plunge pool at the base (inhabited by 'unagressive' freshwater crocs - we didn't test the aggressiveness). A steep climb to the top revealed a series of beautiful rock pools not mentioned in the guide books (presumably to keep them quiet) where we spent the day lounging and swimming. A well deserved break after 5500 km driving in just over a week.The next morning we set off to the next part of the park but then disaster struck. The poor old falcon stopped, dead, having done 5554.4 km since cairns. This time there was no resusitating it, a piston have broken from the crank shaft (or something, we all know i know nothing about cars). I and Johannus (the unhappy car owner)began the long trudge to a pay phone. Now i know how hitch hikers feel when you drive past them. It seemed the appropriate time for me to begin a rendition of 'always look on the bright side of life' for which i recieved (a deserved) punch. There was nothing for it, the car was abondoned at the local garage along with piles of kit, they gave us nothing for it - a nice little earner for them which didn't do much for Johannus' mood. We then got the first coach to Darwin. Thus ends the tale.
posted by justplainnigel @ 2:02 PM
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